Thursday, May 1, 2008

The train ride from Bangkok to Trang

We've arrived in Trang and only a couple hours behind schedule. Poor Jenny's train was delayed numerous hours on her way UP from Trang to Bangkok to meet us when we arrived. One of the train cars had derailed slightly and she was stuck on that thing for a long time.

Our train ride together was wonderful and I slept fairly well considering all the noise the train was making. Thankfully I have pretty hefty earplugs that come in handy for situations like that. Our car was a 4-person sleeper car (2 bunk beds on either side). It was much nicer than I anticipated. However, our car was the only one in the entire train that reeked of urine from the time we stepped on board. Ha. It figures. We're talking f-o-u-l! Honestly though, the stink didn't get overwhelming until a few hours before we arrived.

I woke up around 3:30 AM hoping to catch the sunrise but fell back asleep around 5:30 and missed it. However, I did wake up very shortly after the sun peeked over the amazingly green landscape. I was the first one up and took my camera and sat outside of our room, watching everything go by. The population became very sparse, only a few very modest houses/bungalows every 15 minutes of train ride. I quickly realized I couldn't get any decent shots being behind the glass of our train car so I headed to the front of the train- about 10 cars ahead. Each section of the train was a different price, the lowest in price being wooden benches with an open car and no air conditioning. I found it interesting to note that as I walked through the car, the skin of the passengers became noticeably darker. Jenny has mentioned that Thai culture puts the whiter skinned people on a higher pedestal and that many women use skin whiteners to make themselves more "beautiful." There are commercials for skin whiteners on the TV with a color scale showing how much whiter you'll become if you use their product.

I personally hope to develop an even nicer tan while being here! :)

The food car was an open car, and the only place on the train I could sit and get good shots, as well as be in the cool humid breeze of the early AM. The countryside in this area is amazing. Lush jungles with trees I've never seen before and rice fields with cows grazing and roosters roaming. I sat on that car by myself for about 40 minutes, drinking the traditional Thai coffee consisting of instant coffee, which isn't that bad when it's the only thing you've got.

I'm still blown away that we're actually here. I'm very happy to not be in Bangkok anymore and actually away from all the touristy crap of that city. There were about 5:1 white people to anyone else in a very large radius from where we were staying. Eric said on the last day it made him feel like he was on Spring Break. haha It was starting to feel like that...a bunch of college kids from Europe, Canada, and the US all out to party their asses off in Thailand. Also, I found it quite disturbing that most every white woman was wearing a low cut tank top, or worse- halter top with a mini skirt showing off all of her legs. Although we were in our own little touristy world of Bangkok where most of the residents are tourists, I made absolutely certain to NOT wear anything even slightly revealing, and to keep my knees covered at all times. Anyone who reads up on Thailand, even the slightest bit, could tell you that wearing loose fitted clothing (for women) and pants or capri's is not only respectful of the culture, it gains you much more respect and better service. I would just think that if you're going to take the time to travel all that distance to a foreign land, you'd make damn certain of the cultural nuances before heading out. I suppose that's too much to ask of us stupid Westerners.

I used a squat toilet for the first time on the train. If you don't know what that is, you should google it for pictures. I'm too lazy to post a picture right now. In any case, it was quite an interesting experience trying to squat on that thing while the train was in full motion trying my hardest not to gag from the stink. The gagging was inevitable though.

The first thing I noticed was how the toilets go straight down to the train tracks. It's just an open hole where everything exits the train. When you realize how many squatters live on the sides of the train tracks and walk the train tracks, you are able to start painting the picture of how disease can easily spread. That really blew my mind for a good couple of hours.

Until next time,
Julie

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

Nice story! In our trips to Mexico, we have also craved to get away from the white tourist crowd and into the native populace. Good on you.

Stay out of the center of the train tracks :-)

Seriously, Nice commentary. Keep it up. I'm eating it up like ice cream!

And rather than post another reply.. You guys are soooo lucky to have that Jenny as your guide. I am so jealous of the time you are going to have over the next couple weeks!

Mack said...

Good stuff.

Kristine said...

I love that you opened your journal to your fellow classmates!! Thank you so much.

I am reminded of my school trip to France where some of our girls dressed very inappropriately for the climate. Thus they ended up getting harassed by French boys who followed them around with a condom in one hand, while pointing the the beach with the other.

Americans can be real stupid!!

Susie and Chris said...

Eric, Julie and Jenny,
Thanks for including us in the story. I've just caught up on all of them. Laughed to myself and cried to myself.
You're really capturing quite a story and perspective. I can hear your voices so clearly, even Jenny's who I barely know.
Thanks for sharing.
Love you and safe travels!
Susie